Applique of Orissa is a living and active tradition that has been continuing over centuries. While the largest number of Applique craftsmen are in the region of Pipli. There are also few in Puri and in small numbers in Khallikote, Parlakhemundi and Boudh areas.
The root of the applique form is knotted with the traditions of Lord Jagannath who is the presiding deity of the Puri temple. During processions of the deities the applique items are used. The items that are used for this procession are Chhati, Tarasa and Chandua. Applique work is famous in the cloth cover of the three chariots of the presiding deities in which they travel every year during the Ratha Yatra.
Applique is practiced by a caste of professional tailors, known as ‘Darjis’. Canopies are made that are locally called ‘chanduas’. Chhati is a sort of big umbrella which has a long wooden handle. Tarasa is a heart-shaped wooden piece that is covered by Applique cloth. ‘Jhalar’ is another item which is a sort of frill thaf is used as a border to canopies. Batua is another interesting item. It is a unique Orissan cloth pouch which has a semi-circular shape. Sujnis or an embroidered quilt is another traditional item.
Cloth is the main material that is used for Applique. The stitching process varies according to the items that are made. It is divided into six broad categories:bakhia, taropa, ganthi, chikana, button-hole and ruching. Embroidered patterns are also used and in a few items mirror work is also integrated. The layout varies according to the shape of the piece. To know more read: